Monday 30 November 2009

Goodbye Africa

Well...after 5 months I have come to the end of my great African adventure. I have had such an amazing time and have well and truly fallen in love with the beautiful landscapes, sunsets, sunrises, animals and most of all people that make this continent so special. But am ready to move on, and really looking forward to seeing lots of friens - old and new - in Australia.



My trip has ended in Johannesburg, where I've spent the last few days trying to recpover from a stomach bug that knocked me for six over the past week. A few of us on the overland trip suffered from it, I think we drank some contaminated water at one of the places we stayed. After writing my last blog we drove up through the beautiful Mountain Kingdom of Lesotho which is famed for its Basotho ponies, blankets and stunnning scenery. I went pony trekking which was a lot of fun and we stayed at the famous Malealea Lodge. On leaving Lesotho we drove north to the Drakensburg Mountains. There I did a 25km hike along a gorge to the 2nd highest waterfall in the world. It was a beautiful walk but I wasn't yet feeling 100% and the sun was very very hot so unfortunately it set me back a few days in my recovery... from the Drakensburgs we drove up to Johannesburg. The weather in this area has been incredible - massive thunder storms with dramatic lightening. The place we're staying has a picture window overlooking the city which is pretty cool. I haven't ventured into central Johannesburg, partly because of the horrific statistics we've all heard about the murder and mugging rates, but mainly because I just want to rest! I did of course go to the Apartheid Museum. I have just finished reading Nelson Mandela's 'Long Walk to Freedom' so was interested to find more out about Apartheid. I must confess, before coming to South Africa my knowledge of the subject was very limited. I won't bore you with it here but needless to say I felt very humbled.

Next time I write I will be on the other side of the world!

Wednesday 18 November 2009

Good times

So we continue our journey through the beautiful scenery of South Africa and the Garden Route. Yesterday we went to Bloukrans Bridge which is the site of the highest bungi jump in the world, at 216 metres. You may be surprised to hear that I swallowed my fear and surprised everyone by...not doing the jump. I watched a lot of my friends so it and that was more than enough adrenaline for me!


Yesterday we reached a place called Storms River where the big attraction is black river tubing. It's cool, you sit in an extra-strong rubber ring and fly down the river, a bit like one man white water rafting. Imagine my excitement at the prospect of doing this cool adrenaline-filled activity. And imagine my frustration and disappointment when I fell off a rock yesterday whilst hiking a coastal trail and sprained my ankle!!! So I am currently sitting in the hostel writing my blog while the rest of the group are out on the river. Bad times :(

I'm now almost at the end of my African adventure, and have had plenty of time to reflect on what I've learnt over the past (nearly) 5 months. When I arrived fresh off the plane in Tanzania in June I was shocked to see the level of what I saw as poverty but what I now regard as simplicity in which the people live. Coming from a western country, I was used to having countless clothes, books, cosmetics and plenty of food and to see first hand that that's not the case for so many was humbling. I remember the house girl where I lived (and by the way a house girl isn't a wealthy person's luxury, but usually a relative or friend of the family who does the cooking, washing and cleaning in return for free board and sometimes education), Neema once came into my room and was amazed at how many things I had - baring in mind that I had brought the bare minimum that I thought I needed to survive! All she had was a few changes of clothes, a bar of soap and bottle of a shower gel which I had given her as a present.

I didn't have time to write much when I left Longido as I was having to use incredibly slow and relatively expensive internet, but now I am back in 'civilisation' I have more time to reflect and sum up what was such an incredible and important time in my life. Although for only 3 months, living in a community with a culture so different to my own was amazing. The priorites of the people are very different to ours. For the maasai, cattle take more prescedence than even family. The past months have been dangerously dry, and what little water we had was first given to the cows, then to the people. Many herds were taken hundreds of kilometres away for grazing, and of those who stayed there were many fatalities; when walking in the bush it wasn't unusual to come across carcasses. The drought was awful. For me, the worst it meant was that sometimes I couldn't wash my clothes or have a shower (most annoying after a week on Kilimanjaro without washing facilities) but we had enough to cook and drink, unlike some. Puts the UK hosepipe bans to shame...

Community is also very important to Tanzanians. When there is a wedding the whole village is invited. During my time I was (unofficially) a guest at 2 weddings; once it was a friend of a friend who had a celebration in the village which was so full that we didn't even make it inside the hall but were given a soda outside and had to watch the celebrations through the window! The other was on a very random night out when 2 fellow vounteers and I jumped in the back of a pick up truck and drove to the Kenyan border town of Namanga and went to a nightclub which had been hired out by a wedding party, but instead of turning us away they invited us in to join the celebration! Although poor, all the people I met were unfailingly generous.

I think I have learnt a lot and probably changed a bit as a result of my experinces. I'm without a doubt a lot more relaxed and don't get as stressed as I used to. I have also learnt to really enjoy my own company - something that I always enjoyed before but had never had to rely on as much. Unfortunately I haven't lost as much weight as I had hoped, which I thought was a given in Africa! Turns out that even though I wasn't eating any chocolate, crisps, snacks or even drinking alcohol, the carb-rich diet undid any progress I might have made. But not a big deal in the scheme of things. On the plus side i'm very brown! Plus I'm very happy which is the most important thing.

It's strange being back in the western world. Everything is much the same as back at home and although i'm having fun, being here isn't as interesting or educational as Tanzania was. My time in Africa will come to an end on 30th November when I fly to Sydney. I'm looking forward to it as I will get to see many friends who either live in or will be visting Australia while i'm there, but will be sad to leave this continent which I have some to love so much. I know i'll be back soon...

Friday 13 November 2009

Back in civilisation

Well here I am in Cape Town! The weather has been pretty shocking. More wet weekend in Bognor than balmy urban paradise. I had really wanted to go to Robben Island and climb Table Mountain but the ferry to the Island has been cancelled every day this week, and the mountain has been cloaked in thick grey clouds. That is until today when they lifted long enough for me to queue for an hour and a half, see a guy get hit by a car due to the incredibly stupid and dangerous road systems in Cape Town and finally made it up the mountain. It was worth the wait though. Incredible views across the bay, and right the way down to the Cape of Good Hope. I've also used the opportunity of being in a big city to catch up on all the things I've been missing since leaving London. Namely; shopping, cinema and sushi!

It's a strange part of the trip because half the people are leaving and we are picking up a whole new set of travelling companions. Oh well, they say a change is as good as a rest, and although I am having a fantastic time, new conversation will be much appreciated. Although I have made some great friends so far who I will miss :( We leave Cape Town today and travel down to Cape Alguhas (?), the most southerly point in Africa. Not too sure what else we'll be doing along the way, but the basic itinerary is along the Garden route, up through Lesotho to Johannesburg.

Sunday 8 November 2009

Namibia

Namibia has been amazing - after Tanzania easily my favourite African country so far. We spent a few days in the strangeness of Swakopmund and then drove down the coast and inland through the Namib desert. The scenery was stunning; sculptured sand dunes stretching as far as the eye can see, and amazing flat topped mountains. We visited a place called Sossusvlei and Dune 45, which is the most famous of all the dunes in the world. You know the iconic picture of the dune with an s-shaped curve...No? Never mind.

http://images.google.co.za/images?hl=en&um=1&sa=1&q=dune+45&btnG=Search+images&aq=f&oq=&start=0

Then we went to Fish River Canyon in southern Namibia which is, geologically, very similar to the Grand Canyon. The main difference being the lack of commercialisation; helicopters, fast food restaurants, fat americans etc..! It was beautiful but unfortuately my camera had run out of battery so I wasn't able to take any pics. Grrr...

Yesterday we crossed the border into South Africa, and immediately I felt as though I was back home. Heavy drizzle and all the trappings of the western world. We're in wine country for a couple of days (Stellenbosch for conossieurs) and then onto Cape Town.

Tuesday 3 November 2009

A great achievement

So...i'm now in Namibia and have travelled the entire width of Africa in 3 weeks! We are staying in a very strange litle town called Swakopmund for a couple of days. It's like being in a 1980's time warp! It's also the adventure sports capital of Namibia, so my friends are throwing themselves out of planes later today... don't worry mum I will be safely on the ground holding the camera! Although I did go quadbiking on the dunes yesterday which was awesome (and I don't use that word lightly or often, but I feel this warrants an awesome).


What else...? I am slowly turning ino the female equivilant of Bear Grylls. Bush camping every night; I've really had to toughen up. Neil, you would be proud of me (and probably quie shocked to see how quickly I can now erect a tent).